Dec 15, 2016
As the amber leaves of autumn dress the trees the air begins to cool and the ocean chills, yet there is warmth everywhere. The air is gentle against the skin and the water reflects a paler sky.
In the Hamptons, people begin to move at a slower pace, and there’s space to be more present, more connected. The bounty of autumn begins to flourish with fruits and vegetables that will carry us into the holiday season. Pumpkins have ripened after happily bloating under the summer sun. Orange, green, white and yellow pumpkins abound in whimsical shapes that made my mind reel. But on this day, I am searching for a sweet pumpkin—one destined for a terrific pie recipe shared by a friend.
The Green Thumb in Water Mill is my first stop, where I chat with Johanna Halsey, whose family has owned the farm since the mid-1600s. She points out a pumpkin she calls pharsi squash. It’s so beautiful, with a pale peach rind and distinctive stem, I am not sure if I want to display it or cook it! This particular pharsi squash evolved when Joanna’s brother returned from Nepal with seeds from the round, green pharsi squash native to that country. Once planted, the Nepalese pharsi cross-pollinated with our beloved heirloom Long Island cheese pumpkin to produce a variety that’s unique to the Halsey farm. I took one home for my pie.
The sweet flavor and creamy texture of the pharsi squash inspired me to go back the next day and pick up a few more for an early Thanksgiving celebration. One for another pie, of course, and the other to serve as both a puree to cradle leftovers and this granita, which I layered over a tart, frozen vanilla yogurt, my husband’s favorite treat!
Yield: Makes 6 cups
9 cups filtered water
3 cups organic cane sugar
5 cups of filtered water
2 teaspoons cardamom
2 bay leaves
4 teaspoons cinnamon
8 star anise
1 medium-sized pumpkin (about 7 1/2 pounds), seeds removed and sliced into wedges
Vanilla Frozen Yogurt (I like a tartly flavored frozen yogurt, like Oikos, organic nonfat Greek frozen yogurt)
Fresh mint, for garnish
In a tall stock pot over medium heat, combine 3 cups of the filtered water with the sugar. When the sugar has completely dissolved, add 5 cups of filtered water, the cardamom, bay leaf, cinnamon, and star anise. Stir to combine and then add the pumpkin.
Poach over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin is soft. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely. Transfer the pumpkin and poaching liquid into a covered container and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the pumpkin from the poaching liquid and set the liquid aside. Scrape the pulp from the pumpkin shell, discard the shells and puree the pulp in a blender until smooth. Transfer the puree into a bowl.
Return 4 1/2 cups of the puree to the blender, along with 1 cup of the poaching liquid and the remaining 1 cup of filtered water, and pulse to combine. Reserve the remaining puree and poaching liquid for another use (see Note).
Pour the mixture from the blender into two metal pans suitable for the freezer or a shallow glass baking dish. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, then aluminum foil.
Freeze the granita for 1 hour, then remove it from the freezer and, using a fork, scrape the crystals from the edge of the pan into the center, mix thoroughly and return to the freezer. Continue to scrape and stir the granita once an hour until it is evenly frozen and icy. This may take 4 to 6 hours.
When you are ready to serve, layer 1/4 cup granita over a tart, frozen yogurt, and top with a spring of mint. If you prefer, simply scoop 1/2 cup of granita into dessert coups or decorative glasses and serve on its own, garnished with mint.
Serve immediately.
Note: If stored in an airtight container in the freezer, the granita will keep for up to 48 hours. The leftover puree will keep in the freezer for up to 4 weeks and it’s perfect for muffins or pie. I used the remaining puree for my leftover turkey, and the poaching liquid as a wonderful dressing for a fruit salad.
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