As summer glides into full swing, you may stumble upon the last of the season’s fava beans. Like peas, favas are harvested when they are young, sweet, tender and have a distinct earthy pea-like flavor. So wonderful this time of year!
Early in their growing season, when the pods are no thicker than your pinky finger, you can cook them as you would green beans. Later, when the pods are the size of your thumb, it’s best to shell them out of their downy casings.
Americans typically shuck the beans out of their shells and pop them out of their delicate skins—which infuriates most Europeans, excluding the French. I learned to cook in Mougins, France and was taught to leave the shells on in early spring when they are soft and sweet, and to remove them when the beans are large and the skins tough, generally in late spring—also the time when their earthy flavor shifts toward the taste of bitter wild greens. Toward the end of their season I remove both shells and skins, and pair these creamy beans with sweet peas to create an interesting balance of flavors.
As a child I loved pressing the beans gently between my fingertips until they popped out! Sweet like peas or wild and bitter, the flavors bring back fond memories of the Italian recipes my aunt Tina would create for Sunday dinners in the springtime. She usually served her beans with lamb. Like most legumes, favas pair deliciously with savory roasts, grilled lamb and spicy sausages.
This recipe was inspired by a basket full of favas I found in Southampton this past weekend, and by one of Ottolenghi’s spring recipes. It is a wonderful starter, and can also be served alongside grilled fish. If you are an aspiring vegan like me, you’ll love this version where savory fennel takes the place of meat, and crushed pistachio nuts add just the right crunch. It’s a celebration of spring!
Yield: Serves 4